Changu Narayan Temple: A Visitor's Guide

Changu Narayan is a temple to Vishnu on a ridge about 22 km east of Kathmandu, above Bhaktapur and the Manohara river. It's considered the oldest temple in the valley, and a stone pillar in its courtyard carries an inscription by King Manadeva dated 464 AD, the oldest dated inscription ever found in Nepal.

What to see

The two-tiered temple itself was rebuilt after a fire in the early 18th century, but the courtyard around it is full of much older stone sculpture: Vishnu as Vikrantha striding across the universe, Vishnu riding Garuda, and a kneeling Garuda facing the temple door. Look up, too, because the roof struts are carved with many-armed deities.

The village street leading up to the temple has small museums, cafés and craft shops, so it's a lovely place to linger.

Getting there

Changu Narayan is about 25 minutes by car from Bhaktapur. Our favourite way to get there, though, is on foot: the Nagarkot to Changu Narayan hike follows the ridge down from Nagarkot in about four hours.

Entrance fee

NPR 300 for foreign visitors (checked October 2026).